A day at Teahupoo last summer during the Billabong Pro waiting period is what many are calling the biggest and gnarliest Teahupoo ever ridden. Chris Bryan was fortunate enough to be there working for Billabong on a day that will go down in the history of big wave surfing. The French Navy labeled this day a double code red prohibiting and threatening to arrest anyone that entered the water.

Living a life of contradiction isn’t necessarily a bad thing. In fact, it can give you an incredible advantage over your competition. Take Jeremy Carter for example. To his friends he’s known as being incredibly unpredictable. But to his opponents, he’s recognized as one of the most consistent amateur surfers in the states.